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Cigar Information




Size Guide

CHURCHILL: A large corona format. The traditional dimension is 7"x48 ring.

CORONA: The traditional proportion is 5 1/2" to 6"x42 to 44 ring.

CORONA GORDA: This long robusto format could be called a robusto extra, although its popularity preceded that of robustos. The traditional measurements are 5 1/2" to 6"x 46 to 50 ring.

DOUBLE CORONA: The standard dimension is 7 1/2" to 8" x 49 to 52 ring.

LONSDALE: The classic size is 6 1/4" x 42 to 44 ring.

PANATELA: This format varies more widely in length than almost any other cigar size, from 5" to 7 1/2" x 34 to 38 ring.

PETITE CORONA: This short corona is usually 4 1/2" x 40 to 42 ring.

ROBUSTO: This short Churchill format, sometimes called Rothschild, is growing in popularity. The traditional size is 4 1/2" to 5 1/2" x 50 to 54 ring.





Anatomy of a Handmade Cigar

Hand Made: A cigar that is bunched, bound and wrapped entirely by hand with no machines being used whatsoever in the fabrication process (excluding the mold).

Head: The end of the cigar that you put into your mouth.

Cap: The small flag of wrapper leaf that the roller lays down and seals to the head of the cigar with a vegetable gum based glue.

Shoulder: The area where the head of the cigar meets the barrel.

Barrel: The main body or shank of the cigar.

Ring Gauge: The diameter of a cigar's barrel, expressed in 64ths of an inch. A 32" "ring" is 32/64" or 1/2", for example.

The Wrapper: The outer leaf of high quality, first grade tobacco which is wound around the binder of the cigar. It is chosen for its perfect complexion, elasticity, silky texture and delicate veins.

Binder: A strip of high quality 5th grade tobacco leaf that is wrapped around the filler leaf. The binder's thickness gives it its fuse-like ability to carry the coal the length of the cigar.

Filler: The rolled up inner core of high quality 2nd and 3rd grade leaves in a cigar also referred to as the "bunch".

Long Filler: Tobacco leaf that is long enough to run the entire length of the cigar.

Blend: The particular mix of different strains of tobacco that give each cigar its unique character.

Foot: The end of the cigar that you light.

Tooth: The natural occurrence of the almost-microscopic array of sandy bumps on the surface of some tobacco leaves.

Bouquet: The smell of the unlit cigar, including the wrapper and filler through the open foot.

Aroma: The smell of a cigar when burning.

Finish: The lingering after taste each time you take a puff and exhale.





SEASONING A PERSONAL HUMIDOR

You may be wondering about the best way to care for your cigars.  They should always be kept at approx. 70 degrees & 70% humidity, and a proper humidor is the best way to maintain these levels. Here are some instructions on how to prepare your humidor to receive all of your wonderful new cigars!

Cigars, with their delicate balance of moisture, need to be stored properly. This is easy, low-tech,and important. Most cigars are made in the tropics, and the aim of "seasoning a humidor" is to try and recreate this tropical environment. It takes time, patience, and a little know-how to "season" or ready a new humidor, and the process cannot be rushed.

Most humidors have an interior made of untreated Spanish cedar, the preferred wood for humidifying and aging premium cigars. This wood needs to be humidified, or seasoned, before the box is ready to hold the cigars.


Take a new sponge, (make sure it is unscented and free of soap), and wet it with a liberal dose of distilled water. Wipe down all the exposed wood, including any trays and dividers, and the interior lid. Avoid using a paper towel or a fraying cloth; these will literally leave a paper trail on the wood. After you've wiped down the wood, squirt the sponge with more distilled water, then place it inside the humidor on a plastic bag- to avoid direct contact with the wood- and close the lid.


Next, prepare your humidification device according to the manufacturer's instructions. Unless the manufacturer specifically states that you can use tap water, use only distilled water. (Tap water contains minerals that will destroy most humidification systems by leaving deposits that will clog the humidor element.) Once the humidification element is filled, be sure to wipe it down to remove all the excess water. Rest it on a hand towel for approximately 30 minutes.


Close the humidor with its humidifying element and the damp sponge, and leave it overnight. The next day, refresh the humidification device (it may not need it), and check the sponge. If it is fairly dry, add more distilled water. If it is very damp, leave it alone.


Let the humidor sit another night, and then remove the sponge and plastic bag. The walls of the humidor have now absorbed all the water they need, and now you can safely store your cigars.


Check your hygrometer daily. If the humidity is too high (optimum range is 65% to 75% Relative Humidity), simply open the lid for a short time. If it is too low, add more distilled water to the humidification unit. Occasionally, a damp sponge may need to be left inside for another day. Make sure it is on plastic and doesn't touch either the wood or cigars. You may even wish to remove your cigars and store them in a ziploc bag with a DHS while you do this. Most humidification units will need to be refilled with distilled water about once a month, and recharged with recharging solution about twice a year.


It is recommended that you rotate your cigars both side to side and top to bottom. If you store cigars on top of one another, it is advised to place a thin straw between them to keep the air and moisture even.


Enjoy!

FOR DETAILS ON HOW TO ORDER, PLEASE EMAIL:
smokersclub@uptowncigar.com

BUY YOUR CIGARS HERE

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Published on: 2004-12-03 (3504 reads)

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